Provence, in a full breath

What to do in Provence when the heat becomes stifling?
Our grandparents knew the answer: leave the city for the countryside or the mountains. Gain altitude, find cool nights again, breathe pure air, and enjoy a restorative sleep.

In the High Verdon valley, for example…

Towards the source of the Verdon

Long before it plunges into the spectacular gorges that made it famous, even before forming the Castillon Lake at Saint-André-les-Alpes or the vast Lake Sainte-Croix, the Verdon is still a mountain torrent. It rises near La Foux d’Allos, at 1,800 meters above sea level, at the foot of ridges that rise well above 2,000 meters.

The valley is a dead end: only the Allos Pass and the Col des Champs roads connect it to the Ubaye or Var valleys. Both rise above 2,000 meters and remain impassable for much of the winter.

The pleasures of the mountains

A family-friendly and sporty ski resort, La Foux d’Allos is also lively in summer. Mountain bikers gather there, combining chairlift ascents with downhill runs on prepared trails. Lower down, the village of Allos offers a pleasant recreational lake, perfect for relaxing after a hike.

Among the hiking routes, the most iconic remains the climb to Lake Allos. Nestled at 2,230 meters, it is the largest natural high-altitude lake in Europe, with nearly 3 km in circumference. From the Laus car park (paid), a 45-minute easy walk leads to it. If you pay attention, you may spot marmots. The more athletic will prefer the trail starting from the Cluite car park: about two and a half hours of walking, over 500 meters of elevation gain, but without particular difficulty.

Hikes and Alpine horizons

Lovers of wide open spaces will find countless trails leading to ridges and passes. Allos Pass or Champs Pass: these gateways to the high valleys reveal vast Alpine panoramas, where summer herds graze, bathed in light and pure air. For those unafraid of heights, the Saint-Pierre Gorges trail near Beauvezer is well worth the detour.

A land once divided

Long isolated at the bottom of its valley, Allos once belonged to the Duchy of Savoy together with the Ubaye Valley, while Colmars was part of the Kingdom of France. This complex heritage comes from Queen Jeanne, who separated this territory – as she did with the County of Nice – from the County of Provence. Colmars still preserves the fortifications built by Vauban, silent witnesses of this old frontier.

Lively villages and welcoming stops

During the summer season, Allos and Colmars-les-Alpes come alive almost every day: craft markets, medieval festivals, street performances. When evening falls, the terraces buzz with laughter and cheerful conversations. Quieter, Thorame-Haute and Thorame-Basse nestle in the Issole valley, a trout-filled river flowing into Lake Castillon.

In Thorame-Haute, one address is well worth a stop: Le Bon Accueil, a country bistro on the village square. Generous dishes are served in a friendly atmosphere, where even shepherds’ dogs sometimes come to seek a bit of company after a long day in the pastures.

Find a guesthouse near the Verdon

Freshness and authenticity

The High Verdon is a different Provence: higher, cooler, wilder. Here, summer brings the scent of pine resin, grandiose panoramas, and villages alive with local life. A corner of the mountains to explore, to breathe deeply and remember that Provence is not only olive trees and lavender, but also peaks, torrents, and Alpine horizons.

The High Verdon reveals another side of Provence — a more family-oriented tourism, attracting travelers drawn to wide open spaces, village conviviality, and the beauty of the mountains.